New finger strength science, using hips for crimps, and more!
I absorb a lot of bouldering content during the week. Some of the best tips make their way to my Bouldering Tips section. But what about things that aren’t tips? What about things that are tips, but aren’t the best tips? That’s where the Beta Round-Up comes in.
Every week(ish) I plan to provide a summary of the best pieces of bouldering content I’ve absorbed since the last Round-Up. This could be videos, articles, or even conversations I’ve had with fellow climbers. Let me know if you enjoy this format. Your enthusiasm goes a long way to keep me motivated to write more newsletter posts.
Also, don’t forget that my card game, Beta Break, is currently live on Kickstarter and is in need of funding. I’m pacing a bit behind. I need all the help I can get if the campaign stands a chance to succeed.
Study shows finger strength gains are best with both weighted and unweighted hangs
Over the past two years Emil Abrahamsson has posted a couple videos about his hangboard training regimen. I watched them, was impressed, and then quickly forgot about them. Finger board training is just…sooooooo boring. Recently, he posted this follow-up video called How To Build Finger Strength (SCIENCE EXPLAINED) in which he, along with some scientists (which probably have a cooler title than just “scientist”) look at user data from the Crimpd app to find correlation between finger strength gains and board hang styles (weighted, unweighted, both, none [ie, just climbing]).
Crimp Harder Without Training: Advanced Techniques!
I've been on a journey to get better at slab. And while crimps aren’t exclusive to slab climbing, they are a key ingredient. So, to get better at slab, I must get more comfortable with crimp gripping.
The Lattice Climbing channel is a wealth of information. I’ve been learning from it for years. This Crimp Harder Without Training: Advanced Techniques! video came at the perfect time in my slab journey (ie, the start) as it quickly highlights a series of considerations that all crimp-tacklers need to understand.
For me, the biggest takeaway is: use your hips. Yes, I know to use my hips…when climbing overhang. Twisting to pull closer to the wall is an early lesson for overhang climbers. But on slab? Turns out: yep! It’s just, differently…
Bonus tip: at minute 2:57 of the video, I learned that you aren’t supposed to stand on wooden holds.
I climbed with 4 of the best climbers in the world... Here's what I learned.
I wasn’t familiar with Mike Boyd prior to his recent(ish) foray into climbing videos. The way he talks about himself, and his audience (and based on the number of subscribers he has) he’s built he’s mostly known outside of the climbing world. For what? I don’t know. But I love when non-climbers fall in love with climbing. Another recent example: PewDiePie.
While much of this video focuses on outdoor climbing (which I have only some interest in; I’m primarily an indoor climber), the importance of footwork is something we should all be reminded of every now and then.
An Honest Week Training To Be A Pro Climber
Matthew Avenue wants to be a professional climber. Does he have a chance? I have no idea. But watching his progress and enthusiasm is a blast. Mathew’s general loop is to 1) read a route, vocalizing how he intends to attempt the send, 2) attempt the send, 3) reflect on what went right and wrong, 4) repeat.
I like playing a game as I watch Matthew’s videos: do we read the route in the same way? Generally, we do.
Bouldering Tip: Why are Slab Holds so Hard to Grasp?
My latest Bouldering Tip discusses slab climbing and how, with a simple understanding hand holds, I might just learn to love slab…well, at least like slab.
Kickstarter
Once again, don’t forget that my card game, Beta Break, is currently live on Kickstarter and is in need of funding. I’m pacing a bit behind. I need all the help I can get if the campaign stands a chance to succeed.
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